Gucci’s retro youthfulness has captured the imagination of the fashion world. Alessandro Michele has proven himself astute, tapping into our obsession with rehashing the past – Instagram is currently a kaleidoscope of retro flashbacks. Michele imagined “his bespectacled beret-wearing girl staying over at her boyfriend's place, and so the morning after, things are a little crinkled, a little imperfect.” It is this imperfection that adds character – the Gucci girl has an innate sense of style – an unstudied and youthful aesthetic. There is a reason Gucci’s new head designer was named International Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Council Awards in November.
Alessandro Michele and Glen Luchford’s Spring Summer 2016 advertising campaign is a flourish of frills, metallic, flared pant-suits and seventies references – a roller disco in full session. The models are not celebrities, we do not recognise their faces – this campaign is about the new aesthetic. We are not distracted by a famous face, there is no need for a Kardashian or a Depp here. Nobody is needed to sell this collection, except maybe the designer himself.
Each individual piece is a fashion editor’s dream – bold, graphic, ideal for the pages of a magazine. At the Fashion Group International Awards last month, Alber Elbaz spoke about how being a designer has changed. He said, “We became ‘creative directors,’ so we have to create, but mostly direct. And now we have to become image-makers, creating a buzz, making sure that it looks good in the pictures. The screen has to scream, baby.” If this is true, Michele has again proven right on the money. There is little doubt his spring-spring summer collection ‘screams’, if not ‘roars.’ This collection ticks all the boxes – one has to wonder if this was a calculated move on Michele's part? One that is manipulating us, in the midst of our love of a nostalgic image. If so, I’m not sure I particularly care – the charming green brocade pant-suit and pink lady-bird tie is my favourite look to ever grace the runway. Unfortunately, I did not get this for Christmas, or my birthday, so I settled for my own take – anything ruffled, intense in colour, and graphic hints at the new Gucci aesthetic. If it doesn't look good in person, there's always Instagram. Hashtag Gucci.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Christina Higgins
Turquoise ruffled blouse, Om Diva, pink blazer, Lili Petrus Vintage, printed trousers, Zara, Monogram basket, Rae Feather, faux fur pom-pom key-rings Topshop, gold bracelet, H & M, gold chandelier earrings, H & M.